Peter said...
8/31/2010 5:54:22 PM
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I am not getting the no cell power message, but am getting "Low volts" and the PPM is 0, Voltage is 0 and the Amps is 0 on the display. I had the cell tested and it was fine. I looked on the back of the board and there is no burn. There is plenty of salt in the pool, maybe event too much. Has anyone run into this particular error message?
Steve said...
8/21/2010 11:03:23 PM
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Thank you so much. Five minute fix, zero dollars.
chuck said...
8/18/2010 10:11:25 PM
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Just sent my donation. I had previously studied this a bit and spent less than 15 minutes on the fix today when I got the error. Leave the board in.
Brad said...
8/14/2010 5:48:25 PM
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This fix worked perfectly for me. Watching the video on how to solder was the key for me since I have not soldered anything for a long time. Also, since I did not have any tools or supplies for soldering I went to RadioShack and bought everything that I needed for $46.00. This included a dual temperature soldering iron, a container of Flux, some silver solder, A solder pump to take away the old solder (this was not needed in the end, because the old solder was all gone) and also some silver glue to glue the back of the flow sensor that had also come loose.
I disconnected all of the wires because I wanted to take it all the way out and lay it flat as well as to get to the flow control connector on the lower left (it looks like a phone jack). Before disconnecting everything I took a few close up pictures with a digital camera. It probably cost me an extra 20 minutes to disconnect and reconnect everything. It worked flawlessly by the time I got it all put back together.
One last detail though. I did have to change the polarity of the sensor in order for it to work. This is just done from the keypad. You go to the diagnostic menu and then push either the + or the - button. It has a 15 second delay built in, and then tests the salt content of the water with an electric current. It will show either a + or a - voltage in the upper left hand part of the display. Mine would only stay one for a few minutes when it showed -, but then I did the test again, this time pushing the + key to start the sequence over again. This time the voltage showed as +, and the system stayed on and is working fine now.
Thanks for the tip, you saved me a lot of money.
Lynda said...
8/14/2010 1:25:13 AM
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So excited! It worked just as you said! WARNING - Be sure to turn off all electronics before you shut off the electricity. We did not shut down our computer before we hit the breaker and it would not start up. Luckily, the cost to repair it is reasonable unlike the repair for the cell. THANK YOU!!
Happy said...
8/13/2010 4:31:00 PM
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Thank you so much for this wonderful website. Saved us hundreds. One important message to those trying this....use a "good" quality solder or it will not work. First five times didn't work and then neighbor brought over this high silver content solder and it finally worked. Thanks again!
Marshall said...
8/6/2010 3:16:32 PM
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if you need help or a new board with the latest REv 2.85 I can save you money call me 404-926-6169
Grateful said...
8/5/2010 11:45:23 PM
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Exactly what you said. Thanks for saving me hundreds. Took only 15 minutes to fix and I'm a novice. Thank you. Thank you.
Tom said...
8/4/2010 4:31:30 PM
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I had already looked at the solder joints and didn't even notice the K1 leg had come loose. Upon closer examination, it was rather obvious. I already had the soldering iron and some solder, so after a quick solder job and it's up and running again! I had already had a quote to replace the board (just inside the 5-year warranty) for $500 including labor. Based on what I just saved, I'll be making my donation to the web site shortly. Thanks!
marshall said...
8/1/2010 6:16:15 PM
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If you need a new pcb board or a new turbo cell call me I have the best prices you can find with a warranty www.goldlineparts.com
Anonymous said...
7/29/2010 2:19:55 AM
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no cell power, sautered connections, displaying no cell power, no salt, no ohz
Gregg said...
7/28/2010 10:45:37 PM
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Thanks so much! I read all the posts and eventually spent about $10.00 at Radio Shack for Soldering Iron. I re-soldered directly over the old burnt out area and 2 minutes later all was well. The repair took about 10 minutes with the majority of the time spent waiting for the Iron to heat up. This was my first time soldering anything, so don't have any fear.
Mike said...
7/25/2010 10:29:52 PM
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Holy Cow. What a great site. I spent several days looking for a solution for my no cell problem. I even spoke with a Goldline tech and he assured me that the generator was bad. It was 6 years old. Put the new one on "$490.00" and still had the same problem. I read all of the comments and decided to try the k1 circut board fix. It worked like a charm. Thanks for all of the great posts.
Alex said...
7/24/2010 7:18:59 PM
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Great site. First time I did the re soldering it didn't work but it started raining while I was out there and very humid. Tried it again a few days later and it worked like a charm.
CHC said...
7/19/2010 1:01:56 AM
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Thank you so very much for all the great info and great step by step directions. My husband and I took our Logic box apart and looked at the connection and the connection did not like the one in the picture or the video. It was not burn or discolored. So we put it back together, and thought that cannot be it, we thought it was something else on the board. We talked about trying the fix on it anyway. I am so glad we did! It worked : ) Please except our donation as a THANK YOU!
JRH said...
7/16/2010 3:14:08 PM
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Came back from a week long family vacation and my pool looked like pea green soup. I opened up my Aqua Logic box and it said no cell power. I went down to local pool supply company and they said my mother board was probably out and it would cost at least $600.00 or more to fix, they suggested upgrading to the new Aqua Logic system which would run $1,450.00 installed. I came home and googled "no cell power" and found this site. After going thru the steps on this website and re-soldering a burnt connector on the K1 board,everything works fine. This website saved me literally hundreds of dollars. Thanks a million!!!!
AymanA said...
7/16/2010 2:27:30 PM
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Unbelievable! Was moments away from ordering a replacement board, but then decided to give it a shot. Sure enough, the burnt connector was there as described. I cleaned it off, melted a little solder on (see video on soldering) and viola!! Saved me $600!! THANK YOU!! Now Toyota stood by their products. Least Hayward/goldline could do is offer to "fix" boards for cost of service call. Heck I would have paid $69 service call fee since I was out of warranty. Just my opinion. I will definitely spread the word on this one.
KTinTX said...
7/14/2010 3:29:24 AM
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Worked for me. I had this same issue a couple of years ago and didn't know about this site and called Hayward. They gave me the nearest warranty station contact and $700 later I had a new board. Now a I know better and fixed it myself with some soldering. Thanks to all who have kept this information available.
Anonymous said...
7/13/2010 10:14:25 PM
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I everyone, I don't get the NO Cell Power message but instead I get a message that reads "Cell Temp Sensor Open Circuit" and "Chlorinator Off Sensor Fault" does anyone know what this mean? Do I nedd to simply replace my salt cell? Any suggestion on a replacement or just the same as before? any advice would be greatly appreciated. I hope that my K1 connection doesn't burn out.
Mark in Long Beach, MS said...
7/11/2010 9:48:14 PM
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Worked for me too. Took longer to go get the stuff than it did to repair. Thanks for the website.
HORACE said...
7/9/2010 5:38:10 PM
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Soldering the K1 relayfixes my problem my salt system was 5 yrs old and I tought I needed to change it but I decided to check the k1 connection with aid of the instruction you guys provided and bingo it is working thank you very much keep up the good work. If i can do it you can too!
John said...
7/8/2010 8:32:34 PM
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I got it to work on the 4th time--the flux core solder from radio shack was the stuff that worked mentioned in the solder video If your going to try this use the flux core solder.
Thanks so much for this website and all that work hard to figuring this out.
If you call Goldline they will tell you yes we know about that site and it's a minor amount of people that it effects.
Goldline should do the right thing and have a recall for this.
Any way I am going to change that 20 amp fuse to a 15amp and I willonly add salt when the system is off.
Thanks again for the help and suggetions.
Mark said...
7/7/2010 5:57:35 PM
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Worked perfectly. Thank you so much!
Jane said...
6/28/2010 4:36:34 PM
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We still can't believe it worked! Absolutely amazing. It took us longer to get the soldering gun hot than it took to apply some fresh solder and close everything up. Thank you for this site, feels really good to have repaired something that could have potentially cost us lots of $$$.
Tim C. said...
6/26/2010 5:14:42 PM
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I was admittedly skeptical. "Too good to be true." "This won't be my problem." "I can't be this lucky." "I'll screw up with the soldering iron." ...NOT... It worked and I'm still amazed. Like everyone, this saved me a mountain of time, hassle and money. Thank you, thank you to the engineer that discoverd a simple solution and cared to share it with the rest of us. I will donate.
Doug said...
6/26/2010 2:56:28 AM
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I was thinking ok another $500+ to get this fixed. After looking in the manual and not finding anything helpful I jumped on the internet and found this sight. After a couple minutes with the screws - sure enough I had the same problem. Watched the video and within 10 minutes everything was working. Thanks so much.
Gayla said...
6/25/2010 8:20:41 PM
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Tried the solder solution, still no cell power. Bought a new board and installed, still no cell power. Pool guy charges $95/hour .... any other suggestions?
Mark said...
6/25/2010 6:15:41 PM
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PPM are the same now. Thanks for the fix....
Mark said...
6/24/2010 10:03:41 PM
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Did the fix and it worked. Only problem is that the Salt PPM is registering 3100 in the window with the amps and volts and the other window that shows only the salt PPM is showing 2400 causing a low salt warning. I know that the correct measure is 3100. Has anyone else experienced this?
Tim said...
6/22/2010 9:59:54 PM
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I purchased my house in June of 2008. I had this no cell power error occur in May of 2009. I had the board replaced. With Labor it cost roughly $1000.00 ($890.00 for the board). I had the same error occur over the weekend. My warranty expired a month ago. Needless to say, I am on the hook for for another board. I did some digging and found this site and performed the K1 fix (there was no visible burn in that spot). I also repaired 2 burnt solder connections (both terminal posts where the yellow wires plug in). The board is now working properly. I kept the original board from 2009 and repaired that board as well. Now I have a spare. I wish I would have done my homework last year. I could have saved a $1000.00.
JH said...
6/17/2010 11:04:37 PM
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Worked great. Thanks!!
b said...
6/10/2010 12:52:55 AM
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The mere existence of this site says it all about Hayward's customer support.
LISA said...
6/8/2010 8:50:39 PM
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It worked!!! My 11 year old son and I did the count down and cheered when it showed we had power!!! The description of how to remove the circuit board by dhawkinstx was also a big help. You saved me $600.00!!! Spreading the word on facebook!!!! LISA:)
cb said...
6/8/2010 7:58:09 PM
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Can anyone help on the J-1 connector on the main PCB board?
aax said...
6/8/2010 7:53:03 PM
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I was one of the unlucky few % who had a fried relay. It was literally melted to the circuit board! Once I desoldered it and pried it off it was no big deal to replace it. Now my salt cell is working fine for less than the $10 it cost for a relay. Thanks for the info!!!
dhawkinstx said...
6/6/2010 10:34:46 AM
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Like everyone else, I was searching the internet for a fix to my "No Cell Power" problem. Your site came up first in google's results and i am very glad it did. It took me less than 15 minutes to do the fix and I was up and running again. It was very easy to just loosen the two screws holding the circuit board, shift it up a little, and tilt it out for the fix. It was very easy to fix that way and didn't require removing all the attached wiring. Thank you very much for this site; I just sent in my donation.
Thank you,
--David
cb said...
6/6/2010 2:29:49 AM
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Looking for the J-1 connector for Aqualogic main circuit board. Bottom left hand corner where the salt cell plugs into.
TLT said...
6/5/2010 6:01:17 PM
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There is something you need to look for in addition. The cell can be shorting out via metal pieces, you need to get them out first. My back wash valve lost a tension pin through corrosion with salt water. I found it in the cell about the time I started having High salt amps. Please check out the cells thoroughly.
Beckie said...
6/2/2010 7:35:12 PM
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I have had the "No Cell Power" error on my goldline control for months. Didn't worry about it too until recently since we were not using the pool. We used the clorine tablets as a backup. Now the weather has warmed up I wanted it fixed. After an inspection of my board it was just like you said - Bad K1 connection. I resoldered and brought system back up and it's working beautifully. You guys just asved me tons of money. I'm ohhhh so happy I found this site.
One additional note: Make sure you use a solder iron with enough watts to do the job. The one I initually had handy wasn't working too good. I made a trip to Radio Shack and picked up a better iron and solder sucker. Thanks soooo much.
David said...
6/1/2010 10:41:12 PM
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The black wire on below the red on the upper right had a loose connector. This had to be from the time of installation at the factory. I used by pliers and crimped it tight. The joint that you said need soldered was the culprit. It was hard to see at first, but sure enough it was loose. A quick solder, and it was up and running. Donation to follow....thanks!!
Eric said...
5/30/2010 12:23:48 AM
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Worked for me. Looks like they should have made bigger traces on the circuit board for the amount of current going through this relay. Won't be surprised if down the road (a few years) I will need to resolder it again, or add a jumper wire to fix the burned out trace on the mother board. My unit is 6 years old, so if it last another 6 years, I'll be happy. THANKS AGAIN FOR PROVIDING THIS INFORMATION!!!
KYLE said...
5/29/2010 4:58:54 PM
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I RE-SOLDERED MY CONNECTION AND IT WORKED THANK YOU KYLE
KYLE said...
5/29/2010 12:58:13 AM
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I tried this and it only worked for a second. Is it my sodering job? Could anyone give me some feedback?
Thanks
Dcarp12 said...
5/27/2010 8:28:30 PM
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Worked gread for me. It took longer to heat up the sodering iron than it did to fix the problem.
sjk836 said...
5/26/2010 10:40:22 PM
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Gotta love the internet! I would probably be spending hundreds of dollars on a new board if it weren't for this site. The soldering fix worked like a charm. My board looked fine.....but I resoldered and presto, back to life. Thank you, A donation is on the way.
KMan said...
5/26/2010 4:22:00 PM
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OK, I was able to disconnect the display panel, remove the jumper and then disconnect the motherboard, squeeze the 4 connector points and drop the board out laying forward, still connected to the main wiring harness on the right side. You have to remove the power jumper connecter and the small jumper on the left side in order to accomplish this. You can then solder the K1 connection solder point. Make sure there is NO POWER at all going to the panel. Worked great for me. I think this problem was initially caused by an amp surge due to high salt content in the pool. My concentration was 3800 and it kept pushing the cell to 8.2amps and then shutting off. Once I fixed the power issue per this website, I brought the salt content down by backwashing and filling and it now works great!!!
Les said...
5/24/2010 12:06:05 AM
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Frankly, I did not believe it would work for me. Maybe for others, the lucky ones but certainly not for me!. After taking board out only one pin seemed not quite right. It was not c l e a r l y messed up, just little blackish. Old solder was steel there, it looked kind of "not to bad". Without much of an enthusiasm, I took the board out. Marking wires took the longest. Than I re-soldered the suspect, placed back the board, and checked thing twice. Power was back on and watched seconds counting out time to fire up the cell..... and......the damned orange light did not come on!!! Honey I just saved us hundreds of dollars!!! I screamed watching voltage and amperage going to cell. Thank you very much!
Anonymous said...
5/21/2010 3:03:45 PM
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Thank you for putting up this site. I have replaced the circuit board on my Aqualogic unit twice now. I was ready to give up when I got the light this time. Shame on Aqualogic for not publicizing this fix before, and thank you for doing it now. I repaired the board last night and it works perfectly. Heading to the pay-pal donation site....
Ryan said...
5/20/2010 10:47:27 PM
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I tried replacing the switch and I am still having the problem. Is there any way to find out if the switch is working? Testing it with a multimeter and how?
Max said...
5/20/2010 7:45:09 PM
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What a great site! My pool is fixed, thank you so much for saving me a fortune and letting me be able to swim when I want. Plus now I am good at soldering!
Andy said...
5/20/2010 5:02:36 PM
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Well, it worked for almost a month (see my previous post of 5/2/2010)
Yesterday afternoon: "No Cell Power" again. So this morning I completely de-soldered the contact & then soldered it again. Hooked it all back up & Wah-Lah! It works.
Note - I removed the entire circuit board & took into the house for the work this time - much easier than standing on a step ladder outside!
Anybody have any clue as to whether this contact overheating is being caused by an old/failing cell? My cell is five years old this year & I notice a lot of other folks with this problem have three to five year old cells?
Tejas said...
5/20/2010 12:17:04 AM
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Fantastic site- I ended up having to replace the relay but was able to order the part and once it got here had it back up and running in 30 min. $$ is on the way. Thanks!
Sha said...
5/19/2010 5:01:35 PM
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YOU ARE AWESOME! Thank you so much for posting this! The pool companies said we needed to replace the board. WRONG! Thanks again!!!
Colman Roberts said...
5/18/2010 11:54:39 AM
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Wow! Worked exactly like you said. I watched the video several times and after getting my nerves up, I fixed the problem myself. Thanks again!!!!!
Mike_Frisco said...
5/15/2010 9:51:31 PM
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I tried re-soldering the K1 relay ( have the burnt spot) with no success. Tried it twice ti ensure I had a good solder joint.
Any one got any more recomendations? My local pool co quoted me $1100 to replace the board
SN in TX said...
5/15/2010 5:57:50 PM
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Thanks so much for this site! My husband was headingout-of-town for work when we got the "no power to cell" and he didn't have time to try the solder repair. My 17 year old son was able open unit, find burned spot, & get it up and running again by following your handy instructions!
By the way - our system is almost 5 years old (cell just 2 years old) and error came up after several short power outages during an elec. storm.
THANKS!
Tom said...
5/11/2010 7:27:21 AM
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This site is awesome!! You guys saved me some serious $$! It's been over 20 years since I handled a soldering iron, but after finding your site and reading the instructions, I went to my local Radio Shack, paid $9 for a soldering iron starter kit (with solder) and I was all set. Took me two attempts to get the new solder to stick, but it's now working. $9 and about 30 minutes of my time versus the hundreds and hundreds of dollars I would have paid otherwise. Many thanks for getting this site created and keeping it going!! Paypal donation on its way!
AZCHIP said...
5/10/2010 8:52:54 PM
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Thanks for this site. I stumbled across this website after I discovered the "No Cell Power" error message on my display. I googled "No cell Power" and I saw this website. I took the board out, and saw the fried solder point just as in the video. I already had a solder iron and was able to resolder this in 10 minutes. I fired up the pool, and now its working great! I actually worked! I saved a ton of money, and it was so easy and fast. Thanks for taking the time to make this website.
TxScott said...
5/10/2010 3:02:32 PM
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Fantastic! I was getting a "Check Cell Low Volts" reading on my panel off and on. Resetting the system sometimes worked, but it would always error later. I pulled the panel as described here, and found the fault behind "K1". I heated up the ol' iron and fixed it. I'm back in business now! Thanks!
Professor said...
5/10/2010 7:26:02 AM
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It worked as described. Thanks for the info. Donation is on its way.
SamT said...
5/10/2010 1:09:20 AM
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Absolutley amazing...Thanks so much for constructing this helpful site. Donation on the way! Anyone presented these findings to a qualified attorney who could handle this issue? Hayward has a great scam going!
Matt said...
5/8/2010 6:32:00 PM
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Worked like a charm!!!
Daniel said...
5/5/2010 2:55:16 AM
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Told the pool guys about this site. Sent them the link. They said it wasn't the problem. They changed the salt filter and charged me $800. Same problem. They called Goldline who said I needed a new board. I again told them about the site and said "If you're replacing the board anyway you can't hurt it, go try to solder it. As a favor. For me." Long story short, five months from the start they did what I told them to do in the first place and...fixed. Got my $800 back and I'm sending a donation.
TLT said...
5/4/2010 2:30:40 AM
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Soldering did not work. Had to order the K1 relay from Mouser for a buck 88 plus shipping! Once the relay was changed out, everything worked fine! Yee Hah!
Andy said...
5/2/2010 6:10:44 PM
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Had this same problem with my Agaulogic P4 just under 5 years old - soldering as directed finally fixed it & has been trouble free for 2 months now.
Note: I had to solder & desolder this thing about 6 times before it finally "took" - & I do have a just little prior training & hobby experience with soldering - so if at first you don't succeed, de-solder the contact & keep trying - be patient - if you run out of patience, wait a couple days & come back to it - it helps to have one of those plunger/suction type de-soldering tools. Be careful not to overheat the contact or burn the circuit board though.
Interesting Side Note: Goldline would not help me on this at all as far as confirming the problem or selling me a circuit board - don't even bother calling. All they will do is refer you to their local "authorized" service rep (mine was 35 miles away) - I had another more local pool guy look at if for me at no charge - he told me all he could/would do was replace the entire circuit board.
(Interestingly, I found out from him that he used to be goldline's authorized repair guy for my area, but when Goldline was bought out by Hayward they started charging a mandatory $2000 annual franchise fee in order to continue to be their "authorized" service rep. He refused to pay it - said it wasn't worth it for the amount he would make doing "warranty" work.
Bart said...
5/1/2010 3:02:54 AM
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It worked just like it was shown. You save me a ton of $$$. I just made a donation and I hope others that benefit do the same.
John M. - Houston said...
4/29/2010 7:33:36 PM
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This website is fantastic. Please note that when receiving the No Cell Power message, check your 20 amp and 3 amp fuses prior to removing the board. I got a No Cell Power 1 message on my Aqualogic system (installed 02/06) and was prepared to find a burnt solder point, but the board was clean. Instead the issue was just a bad 20 amp fuse. Website is still excellent to avoid the high cost of having a tech out to your house. Thanks again.
Rick said...
4/24/2010 8:34:44 PM
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Well, mine worked for a week. I have the "no cell power" error again. I resoldered, but not luck. Anybody run into this?
Dave said...
4/24/2010 8:11:46 PM
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You rock. I just did the weekly chlorine check, and had no chlorine at all! Checked the system and saw the error. Googled, and found you. Ten minutes later, problem solved. THANKS!
Michael D said...
4/24/2010 12:01:29 AM
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I too also had a "no cell power" error. I followed your video and indeed found that the backside of my board needed a little solder on the "burned-out" connection. Your repair suggestion worked like a charm! My repair took 20 minutes and I saved about $500.00!! Thank you
Rick said...
4/17/2010 5:59:29 PM
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I have a four year old system and just got the "no cell power" error. I pulled back the motherboard, saw the burn spot on the K1 joint, and resoldered. Working again... so far. Mega-thanks.
Rob said...
4/7/2010 12:38:05 PM
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This problem hit me a week ago. Could not do anything about it then due to a sprained ankle. Last night I found this great website showing exactly how to fix this problem but I was too tired and decided to wait till the morning to attempt the repair. Woke up this morning, got my tools together, and started the repair. Upon inspection of my main board, I noticed that the through hole was not completely surrounded by copper trace. Maybe this is also part of the problem. The copper trace is thin to that connection and could be causing a heat build-up when the current rises. Hmmm... Well, I scraped away about 1/8" of the green protective film all the way around the bad connection to expose more area to solder to. This resulted in a much better solder joint able to carry more current and it even looks better that the original one did! Put everything back together and voila! Success! The kids are happy to be swimming again! Thank you so much for this website. I may have found the problem on my own in due time, but this site made it so much easier. My donation is on it's way!
George said...
4/5/2010 3:49:14 PM
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I had my salt cell go out last year then several months after replacing it the "no cell power" reared its ugly head. I called Hayward and they told me "call a service tech, more than likely the main board is out and needs to be replaced". I called a tech and they gave me an estimate of $1000 installed. I looked and found I could purchase a new system and Install myself for that price. I purchased chlorine tabs and then it got cold so I waited for the repair, and really didn't have the $$$$ cash...lol. I had researched the problem earlier when I first found the problem and found the first posts about the K1. Last night I found this website, watched the video, and checked my main board this morning. Low and behold, i saw a poor solder joint on the K1. I am an Electronic tech, so I pulled out my soldering iron, solder, and repaired the solder point. This is clearly a design or inherent problem. Hayward should at least have sent out a tech bulletin because HAVE to be aware of the situation due to the amount of warranty return parts. It is clear to me they know that they and the service companies stand to make a abundance of money on parts and repair. This is deceptive business practices as I see it and if I ever have to replace my system it will not be with a Hayward product. My brother has a Jandy and loves it. Also I wanted to upgrade my software version, Hayward advised, "replace the main board", in my opinion there should be a way to upgrade the software with a computer, not replace a $750 part. I am so thankful for the post and the website!
Thanks, George
BUZZY said...
4/5/2010 2:10:38 PM
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I HAD THREE POOL COMPANIES STAND ME UP SO I GOT TICKED OFF AND GOOGLED THE PROBLEM. I FOUND YOU SITE AND DROVE TO WALMART BECAUSE I COULDNT FIND MY SOLDERING IRON. WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN A $700 FIX BECAME $10 FIX AND ONLY TOOK 25 MIN INCLUDING DRIVING TIME TO WALMART. EVERY PICTURE YOU HAD UP WAS EXACTLY WHAT IT LOOKED LIKE ON MY SYSTEM. I CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH FOR HAVING THIS SITE.
Jed said...
4/5/2010 3:25:53 AM
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I have only one light on the panel. The light for No Flow which goes out when the pressure reaches the appropriate PSI. All other lights remain dark. This happened after I added salt. I changed the fuse but still have the issue. Any ideas?
David said...
4/3/2010 11:35:37 AM
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Your website is a true testament to the power of the internet. My 4 year old aqualogics (rev2.4.4) board is now fixed due to your website and simple instructions. Cheers to you sir!
Borik said...
4/2/2010 3:38:03 PM
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I had this same problem for about 3 weeks now, cell under warranty and Hayward service company came to fix it. They seem to know what the problem is, apparently is a defective manufacturer's board. Strange is that they keep quiet about it, so it seems the boards burn out near of after the 3 year warranty period. They came and also replace a multiport valve with cracks on the joints and the main panel on the heater. So far service response has been good, but it seems product quality is an issue. Great site and good job with the video. It seems you are saving lotttssss of $$$$$ for so many people.
Kurt said...
3/31/2010 3:35:25 AM
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Just a follow-up. Soldered the K1 joint this morning and had same problem. Had to leave for work and during the day contacted a contractor and was quoted in excess of $700 to replace board and labor costs. Not what I wanted to hear so I went back to the board, re-soldered it and am chlorinating with no problems. Thanks to this site, I just saved some big $$$.
Kurt said...
3/29/2010 8:57:03 PM
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Got the same issues listed below. Have a PS4 system and it was installed back in 2007. Looked at the video and see the burnt lead right behind the K1 relay. Heading to The Shack to get a solder gun kit to fix. Local pool service wanted hundreds to replace. Will try this solution and post the results. Glad to find a website that has this info.
Anonymous said...
3/28/2010 3:48:24 PM
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No cell power message how do i fix it
Anonymous said...
3/27/2010 5:26:28 PM
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worked for me for 2 weeks then failed
DK said...
3/25/2010 10:08:03 AM
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Thank you SO VERY much! Your instructions were perfect and this worked for us.
oregno said...
3/23/2010 4:03:10 PM
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My Acqualogic PS4. installed 5/2005, displayed the "No Cell Power" last week. After contacting Goldline tech support, I was informed that the problem was in the motherboard and gave me the name of an authorized dealer to resolve the problem. Fortunately I found this informative website, and by following the video instructions I discovered the exact defect. The repair was simple and I'm back in business. It was well worth my $20 donation. Thanks
Ed R, Ormond Beach, Fl
Ben B. in Mandeville, LA said...
3/21/2010 9:04:05 PM
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I got the "No Cell Power" message three days ago. My equipment was installed August 06 so I'm under the "pro-rated" warranty. The dealer wanted to charge me $450 for the part and $300+ for the labor. Of course you can buy a new board for about $450 on the web, and swapping the board out itself isn't hard at all, so I was going to do it myself anyway. Since this was the case I decided to give the info on this web site a try. What the heck, I have a soldering iron and if it didn't work I was no worse off. As soon as I removed the board I saw the problem (just like in the pictures). I cleaned off the K1 relay contact and resoldered the connection and the first time it didn't work. But I removed my 1st solder job and cleaned and resoldered and it's working like a champ. I'm Superchlorinating right now. Thanks for saving me so much money.
Mike said...
3/20/2010 1:40:55 AM
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I am so glad I found this website. Saved me close to $500, minus the DONATION COMING YOUR WAY! Thanks again for the very thorough, detailed fix
RA said...
3/15/2010 1:34:44 AM
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My AQL-PS-4, Installed 4/2005, stopped producing Chlorine and gave the "No Cell Power" message. The solder joint was seperated after uasing the stp by step instructions the problem was fixed. Thanks to your website. My local authorized (extortionsit) Hayward/Goldline manufactured(defectively)deaer wanted 60% of $700 to fix. You saved me over $400. I know how to solder and already had all the materials on hand. Again, Thank you and I plan to pass the info onto my local pool supplier. Leslie's was of no help and the independent "One Stop Pool Shop" was interested in knowing if I succeed.
AL said...
3/9/2010 11:33:21 PM
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You are amazing! it is fixed!!!! Thank you. DONATION ON ITS WAY!
Anonymous said...
2/20/2010 6:43:42 PM
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where could i get a wiring diagram (schematic) for the p/s-4 PCB so i could follow the conductor for K1 relay.
Thx.
dcwilson said...
2/16/2010 12:11:08 AM
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U ROCK! That could have been my motherboard in your pictures. I cleaned the relay post off with some alcohol and re-soldered. 15 minutes! Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou!
Jamie - Florida said...
1/24/2010 6:47:58 PM
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Well, I was struck by the burned solder joint too! I have now fixed it following the instructions outlined. At first I didn't get the solder joint good enough but after the 2nd try, it is now working again. I'd like to know if this is a reoccurring issue each time the cell needs to be replaced? Also, has anyone spoke to Hayward about this recently? It seems like an issue they should have a recall for. The cost of the cell being about $500 and a board cost of $800 would make a reoccurring expense of $1300+ ridiculous! Thanks for the website!
From Arizona said...
1/23/2010 8:05:19 PM
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Yes, it worked. Thank you for saving me hundreds of dollars.
Bill said...
1/22/2010 2:33:29 AM
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Worked perfectly. My solder points didn't look bad at all but I figured I had nothing to lose by going ahead and resoldering it. Apparenly they weren't as good as they looked because now I don't have a cell power error.
Ryan said...
1/20/2010 2:18:39 PM
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Cell Power Error! I Have had it for weeks now. Tried replacing K1 relay switch even though the solder looked fine. Fuses all look good and still nothing. Am I missing something or am I one of those that has to replace the entire board. Just over 3 years old and I have to replace it already. Ridiculous. Any other ideas I might have missed? Thanks!
Doug said...
1/16/2010 7:21:03 PM
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Anyone had the resistors go out? I have discoloration on the solder points on my board, but its on the 2 resistors in the middle, not on the relay. Relay solder points look great, not sure if I should mess with them.
Bob said...
1/2/2010 8:34:38 PM
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My Aqualogic PS4 is about 2 years old. This solution worked perfectly - just as described. The K-1 solder joint was burned out. Obviously a manufacturing defect. Unit is now operating as it should.
Keith said...
11/15/2009 6:35:07 PM
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What a website! Thanks so much for the sharing of this knowledge! Already had the soldering kit -- spent more time waiting for the soldering iron to heat up than I did in repairing the solder joint :-) Solution was perfect!
Rod said...
11/9/2009 7:55:19 PM
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Received the NO CELL POWER message. Found this website. Already had the soldering kit. It wasn't my best soldering job since it has been a while; but had this fixed in 10 min. Solution worked great!
Dave said...
10/31/2009 4:53:02 PM
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AquaLogic P-4, 3 and half years old, getting quotes from $500 - $800 for a new main board. After getting my t-15 cell tested at Leslies, I bought a $15 soldering iron at Home Depot, I tried the repair myself. Same symptom showed on by board, and I repaired it as described, error is gone, and cell is now working again. Goldline Controls should be embarrassed about this defect in workmanship, and the price they charge for replacement boards. $20 Donation headed towards the support of this website, it saved me hundreds.
Adam said...
10/28/2009 11:26:33 PM
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Just stumbled along the website, I was just about to buy a new cell... Followed the instructions (great by the way) the first time it popped again.... I re-did it with more solder and PERFET!!!! Thank You sooo much.. Total time was maybe 45 minutes, amazing that this info is available.. I will follow up if there are any other problems...
Jerry said...
10/25/2009 6:10:01 PM
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i have a Aqua Logic AQL-P-4 controller installed with the pool in 2005. we had the board replaced once before under warranty, so the board is a goldline, blue in color not green. it was giving the "NO CELL Power" error. The soldered leads on the back looked normal, with NO burnt leads. i went ahead with re-soldering the 3 leads to the K1 relay and put it back together. IT WORKED! it click on and voltage is flowing to Cell now. Thanks.
Eddie said...
10/20/2009 6:53:27 PM
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Tryed to solder with no luck i think the relay may be bad i hear it clicking when trying to turn on..any idea where i can get this?
Michael O said...
10/11/2009 4:17:48 PM
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my pool is 6 years old. i had no cell power indicator. after doing reasearch, I found this site. I went to lowes picked up a solder and it work. (I have no solder experience) thank you for saving me $560 right before the holidays.
Todd (Houston) said...
10/11/2009 4:33:09 AM
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I ended up having to replace the K1 relay as it was burned out as well as the solder joint. Everything is currently working great.
Lisa said...
10/9/2009 4:16:51 PM
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I am getting No cell power too... system is 4 yrs old & am going to try to fix this this weekend. Wish me luck!
Rick said...
10/1/2009 1:45:33 AM
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I just wanted to thank you so much for this information..It worked perfectly!! This information really saved us alot of money! Thanks again for this great website! :)
Hey Dad said...
9/29/2009 11:56:12 PM
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Hi I am the owners son and I am just saying hi dad hows it going?
me said...
9/29/2009 4:47:54 PM
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thanks for the fix. couldn't have been any easier and solved the issue.
Dean - Florida said...
9/29/2009 3:51:06 PM
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I performed the fix this past weekend - problem solved!
only cost me $8.99 soldering kit from Radio Shack!
thanks for the website
pool tech said...
9/25/2009 7:31:23 PM
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These solder failures on the relay pin seem to be on product shipped before July 2007.
JFD3 said...
9/20/2009 7:37:16 AM
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Thanks for the help.. This fix worked great for me. I certainly hope that it lasts. This issue seems to be at the very least poor workmanship, or at worst faulty design. The burned look of the solder joint leads me to feel its a design issue. Anyways I hop this fix holds for a few more years... Thx BTW as a side note my pool was installed in Dec of 2005...
Desiree said...
9/19/2009 4:40:25 PM
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My nephew is a mechanical engineer, came over and soldered the joint. It worked perfectly. Thank you for this website!
Nikole D. said...
9/16/2009 7:17:40 PM
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THANK YOU!!!!! you saved me almost $800 and I could not be happier. I followed all the steps listed and hardest part was getting the board off so the soddering could be done. My pool is working just fine. Thx!
Geoffrey said...
9/13/2009 6:53:43 PM
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It did not work for me but I am sure it was due to bad soldering, I'm gonna give ti a go again tomorrow. I did not use flux which I know is a bonce-head move.
Neil said...
9/10/2009 11:59:23 AM
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Thank you for your help and easy to follow diagnosis and repair instructions. I will definately not send a picture of my rookie soldering experience but it fixed the problem for me. After spending alot of money on a new cell, the old one was definately done and I can only assume that this is the reason the K1 joint melted, it was a relief not to have to spend even more. Thanks again for the brownie points I just got with my wife!
Loni said...
9/4/2009 10:28:10 PM
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oldline is due to release their new price list any week now (each September), but based on last year's price list the Aqua Logic board (GLX-PCB-MAIN) is 712.80. The list on a Pro Logic board (GLX-PCB-PRO) is 788.40. Not sure without double-checking, but I think the Aqua Logic's white metal housing itself is not Sense And Dispense ready. Not TOTALLY maintenance-free, but it will self regulate the chlorine and pH with the proper hardware. If anyone is interested, there are two GLX-PCB-MAINs on eBay, listed as new but open box, different sellers, Buy It Now for 325.00 each with free shipping. Way cheaper than I can get them for! This is NOT an endorsement, just a suggestion on where else to check for savings. Can everyone post the revision of their motherboard? It's in the Diagnostics menu, and might be of some help. Thanks!
Tim said...
9/4/2009 1:24:46 PM
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So I experienced this issue as well, and resoldering and replacing the relay didn't work for me. The K1 connection was definitely toasted, but the issues must have run deeper than that. Anyway, I have an AquaLogic PS-4, and I just ended up replacing the board. You can order one online and do it yourself for far less than a pool company will charge you. The part number for the AquaLogic PS-4 board is GLX-PCB-MAIN; if you go to the search site nextag.com, and enter that part number, you'll see online sellers that sell the board. ALSO, be aware the the Pro Logic board can replace the Aqua Logic board, and it's cheapear. The part number for that board is GLX-PCB-PRO. I got mine for about $450, and had it replaced in about 15 minutes. The updside of getting the pro version is that it's a newly designed board (hopefully the issue with the K1 relay is designed out) and the PRO also allows you to add the 'sense and dispense' option, which essentially makes your pool totally maintenance free.
Just my $.02
Casey said...
9/3/2009 7:08:53 PM
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We just hit this problem this weekend, our system was 3 in April so the 3 year warrenty was up. This was our first solder job. After 3 tries we took the board out and had a friend help. He had better tools and thought we weren't getting enought heat with the portable iron we purchased. It's back up and running. We put in a service call just to ensure that we had everything plugged back in correctly. Thank you!!!
Ed said...
9/2/2009 8:53:00 AM
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Ya, it worked, good times. Thanks for nothing Hayward. Go job NoCellPower.com you saved me a lot of cash
Ed said...
9/1/2009 9:23:33 AM
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I work as an electronics technician and thought you might want to know from your picture in step 6, the second solder joint in the middle is also ready to go with a hair line fracture. If this trace is getting hot enough to melt the first solder joint then I would re-solder all joints on the trace, just to be safe. I will try this tonight on my same issue and let you know. Thanks for the heads up, Very cool.
Todd said...
8/30/2009 8:09:33 PM
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Same problem with my chlorinator, the remote inside my home read "no cell power" and the check system light was on. I found your website and went to my neighbors who are engineers, had it fixed in 15 minutes. Thanks so much for sharing this information.
Jodi said...
8/29/2009 3:49:00 PM
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This was very helpful HOWEVER I still had to shell out $500. The Turbo Cell (T-15) was actually what was blowing out the solder. I read this thread AFTER purchasing the new T-15. While the new cell cleared the no cell power error, the new cell was only reading 1/2 the salt ppm that was actually in the pool. Found this, replaced the fuses and soldered as directed...it worked! Thought I would try the old cell afterwards hoping that the solder job would do the trick, however the old cell blew it out again. Soldered again, new cell...works great! At least I didn't have to pay for labor!!! Thank you!
Anonymous said...
8/29/2009 2:39:00 PM
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Thank you for this post. You did an excellent job describing how to repair this problem. It smelled like something was burning in my panel for about a week, then it read Low Voltage to cell. A couple hours later it read No cell power. I tried to solder the post, but I had to order a new relay. Now it works perfect. Thanks again for taking the time to document this problem.
Anonymous said...
8/28/2009 7:23:00 PM
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Well, I guess Hayward and Goldline products are not the ones to have. My Aqualogic says Communication Error and is not working. My pump and solar and everything still comes on but I can't change it or control it. They want $l,500.00 to replace the two boards that I have. Any information or help someone could give me would be appreciated.
Donna
Anonymous said...
8/27/2009 12:27:00 AM
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I have the PS8 system purchased in 2004. My main board went out 2 months ago and was replaced by Goldline authorized rep. at a steep price. The very next day my master control had a reading on the screen stating, "cell power error". After coming across the advice on http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pools/msg0312544321904.html, I was able to clear the reading and regain regular operation, AFTER I was told by the same rep that I might possibly be in need of a new chlorinating cell @ $500+.
Anonymous said...
8/23/2009 9:23:00 PM
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Thank you! I had the same problem. It took me about ten minutes and my Aqualogic is running again.
Brian said...
8/17/2009 10:40:00 AM
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Okay, this is the best Google search i've ever done! Thanks! Not wanting to solder this myself, I called our local warranty station and they said they are getting about 3 of these per week. Goldline is backordered, so it's clearly a big problem. if I can't get the part, I'll get my board repaired.
Paul E. - Houston, TX said...
8/15/2009 5:35:00 PM
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Thank you, thank you thank you. It worked for me. I would love to donate for the help...this was going to cost so much, and WOW the joy of fixing this. Awesome!
Anonymous said...
8/10/2009 1:56:00 PM
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Hayward and Gold line products.
In 2006 I installed a top of the line Salt pool using Hayward and Gold Line pump, heater and electronics. This is my fourth pool and the nicest one yet. The pool has been great but the Hayward products have been nothing short of garbage. From day one I have had problems. I understand that problems do occur. Unfortunately with Hayward there is zero interest in solving problems. Good luck even getting in touch with a person that cares. So far I have replaced the following:
Pool Filter motor and pump
3 computer boards. It seems they don’t last more than about six months.
2 pool heater thermostats
Electric valve control.
2 different service calls for burned wires
Heater wind stack to reduce back air.
The money I have saved in my salt system has been given back to Hayward in the shape of an ongoing revenue fund raiser. AVOID THESE PRODUCTS AT ALL COSTS IF POSSIBLE.
Anonymous said...
8/9/2009 2:08:00 PM
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Thank you very much for your posting. With the benefit of the youtube video referenced above, I was able to fix the problem for about $20 (cost of soldering kit). Thanks again.
Anonymous said...
8/8/2009 5:03:00 PM
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I replaced the relay on the K1 and worked fine.
you can order at Newark.com.
Anonymous said...
8/4/2009 10:01:00 PM
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I did try resoldering but did not work. I have ordered new K1 Relays from Mouser.com and then I will try that.
the part number is G8P-1C4P
EmrysX said...
8/2/2009 3:10:00 PM
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Thanks again, I'll be donating a few bucks since you just saved me hundreds.
I documented my experience with the fix and the video is up at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bkgN8ck-N8
Thank you!
Emrysx said...
8/2/2009 11:55:00 AM
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When it's finished processing, the video is up at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bkgN8ck-N8
Emrysx said...
8/2/2009 11:20:00 AM
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Thanks again, I'll be donating a few bucks since you just saved me hundreds.
I'll be posting a video response of my experience as well, in case it's helpful.
Thank you!
Anonymous said...
8/2/2009 10:52:00 AM
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Dude, thanks to you I found the same problem and fixed it. Thanks so much, you saved me $660. I'm having a beer.
Goldline Solders like Crap said...
8/1/2009 1:21:00 PM
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Same K1 failure for use, resoldering fixed the problem. Our pool maintenance company didn't have a clue...they said they thought the board would need to be replaced. NOT! Everyone who saved hundreds of dollars on this fix should definitely donate a few bucks to the site owner.
Anonymous said...
7/26/2009 10:29:00 AM
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Another success story to report...we had no cell power 2 error message on our PS-8. My husband soldered the K1 just like the instructions recommended and everything is working like a charm! My husband is now a believer in Google. Thank you for offering your assistance to everyone navyet!
chief fluffydog said...
7/24/2009 3:55:00 PM
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Resoldering mine didnt work either.
Im looking to replace the relay.
Does anyone know where I can get the K1 relay?
Anonymous said...
7/22/2009 6:22:00 PM
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Thank you! It worked perfectly.
Anonymous said...
7/21/2009 3:59:00 PM
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I had the same problem with no cell power, but the fix didn't work for me. Thanks anyway.
Anonymous said...
7/18/2009 8:13:00 PM
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I would like to THANK YOU, THANK YOU so much for posting this resolution to the 'No Cell Power 2' error!! I had no idea what was going on except my pool started turning green and we were a day away from celebrating my fathers 80th birthday party. I contacted Hayes and they gave the pat response of 'Contact your local authorized dealer'. No explaination nor fix for the problem. I called our local dealer and they said it would be Monday, two days after the party, before they could do a service call. So I hit Google and found this site.
I was a bit hesitate about messing with the circuit board but after purchasing a soldering tool from Radio Shack for $8.99 I gave it a try. The fix was done exactly as your step-by-step instructions said and voila error gone and a day later no green pool, birthday party saved!!!
Monday came and I informed the service tech that his services were no longer required. Thank you so much for the detailed instructions saving both the party and untold $$$ the tech would've charged. I'm more than happy to make a donation to keep this site alive for others' so they don't get fleeced by a service tech on something they can easily do on their own.
Ray & Debe
Anonymous said...
7/16/2009 11:15:00 AM
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I had the same problem w/K1 joint, followed instructions to fix it and voila, problem solved. Saved hundreds of dollars. Keep posting,very helpful.
One more thing,to return to normal salt level(ppm) how much water should I drain and replace w/fresh water? Anyone?
Anonymous said...
7/11/2009 6:34:00 PM
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Thank you for this repair. I have an AQL-PS-8 system that was displaying the "no cell power" message and also the "cell off-low temperature" message. Since the outside temperature was 112F and the pool water 91F I knew something was wrong with the control panel. As usual, the fault occurred on a weekend when the Goldline Control service department was closed. Using your photos, I discovered the solder had melted on the K1 relay pin on my circuit board. I soldered the pin, and sure enough, problem solved. Now, what caused the solder joint to melt in the first place?
Anonymous said...
7/11/2009 6:34:00 PM
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Worked for us! Thanks!
Anonymous said...
7/11/2009 5:28:00 PM
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Thanks so much to the person that figured out this fix.
My PS8 is just three years old and i had the same error.
I re-soldered the joint and it fired right up.
Thanks do much.
Anonymous said...
7/10/2009 11:32:00 AM
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Resoldering mine didn't work, because the relay was bad on mine. Ordered it by googling the part number found on the k1 relay. (all three relays are the same and the website for ordering the relay has a $35 minimum order requirement). Each one only costs about $2.50, so I ordered $30 worth of wire ties to round out my minimum order. LOL! Anyway, heated up solder, removed old KI, put in new, put it all together - IT WORKS! Moral of the story...don't quit if just soldering doesn't work, try replacing the KI also.
Anonymous said...
7/6/2009 9:19:00 PM
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WOW - thank goodness I found this site!!! Thank you for the detailed instructions/pics. I had the same problem and fixed it with resoldering the K1 joint. I can't believe that is what it was. I was told the board had gone bad (by Hayward!) and it would cost $1200 to replace. Give me a break - they need to stand by their product - people are getting ripped off everyday.
Thanks again for helping us all! We really appreciate it! Ed--
Anonymous said...
7/5/2009 1:48:00 PM
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We just got this failure yesterday, the K1 solder joint was the problem. I fixed it for $15. So far so good!! Many thanks.
Does anyone know why the joint fails?? The solder around it definitely looked different; dull appearance, etc.
Anonymous said...
6/29/2009 11:55:00 PM
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I got this same error on my aqua logic P4 shortly after the warranty expiration..(What a scam!) Has anyone tried getting a recall fix on this?
Anonymous said...
6/28/2009 10:22:00 PM
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I just returned from a trip to discover a green pool and the message “No Cell Power” on my Aqua Logic P4. I found this site and like so many others,same problem. I followed the repair directions and can happily report that I'm fully operational again. Thanks, it saved me a lot of $$$$$$$$. In these tough economic times its great that "We the people" can help one another.
Anonymous said...
6/27/2009 11:53:00 AM
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You're a star for posting these instructions, which were clear and easy to follow. Thank you for the help and for saving me time, hassle and money. You're another good reason why the web is such a valuable resource for information and problem solving. Thanks again.
Greg
Gareth R said...
6/25/2009 1:04:00 PM
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Re it only worked for 24hrs, my first attempt was similiar. I went to radio shack bought a $10 solder sucker which when you heat the old solder sucks it up. I then re soldered lasted for 2 weeks. Have re soldered again my technique is getting better. I will not remove the board completly and take it to get professionally soldered. Hey everybody starts somewhere.
Arif said...
6/25/2009 2:38:00 AM
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'Procrastination' never felt so good! Got this problem back in March, saw the web posts on how costly the fix is, and decided to do nothing. Now that summer is heating up in Arizona (I mean going over 100 degrees) I needed to get it fixed. Called the pool company and they said it would cost $85 to show up, $535 for the part and some more for labor. Made the appointment and for some reason ggogled the problem once more and voila, found this new site! Canceleld the appointment (that I got after waiting for a week) and follwed the simple instructions to get it fixed. I wish the creator of this website every success in life. It's not the money we saved, it's the peace of mind we have by fixing it this way (not giving money to those people that don't deserve it and most likely created the problem). That's priceless!
Ahhhhh!
Anonymous said...
6/23/2009 9:16:00 PM
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A copy of a letter I am sending to the attorney general of AZ.
I removed my info and that of the employees of the pool companies.
To Whom It May Concern:
My pool was installed in March 2006 by a pool company with a Goldline Aqua Logic Pool controller AQL-P4. This controller serves to control the electrical systems of the pool- generating chlorine and the filter. The controller was warranted for 3 years so it expired in March 2009- (less than 3 months ago).
On Saturday June 20th I discovered a “No Cell Power” message on my Aqua Logic P4. As a result my pool system could not generate chlorine from the salt system and the pool had turned green. Since Hayward’s customer service was closed for the weekend I turned to the internet for assistance. I discovered there to be a tremendous number of complaints from other customers about this same problem. Apparently many owners with AQL-P4 controllers had them break right around or shortly after their warranty expired. They all reported the same problem that the K1 joint was melted. Following instructions from www.nocellpower.com I disassembled the products to find a melted K1 joint with visible burned damage.
On Monday June 22nd I contacted Hayward and spoke with someone. He told me Hayward was aware of the “No Cell Power” error message and the K1 joint. He said that he typically fielded several calls a week with the same issue. He said Hayward would not cover this under warranty since it is three months past the expiration date. Hayward does not suggest product owners attempt the repair because of the safety issue of high voltage. He said that 40% of the parts would be covered under a partial warranty but none of the labor.
On Monday June 22nd I spoke with someone from the pool company. He reported that the repair would be $740. A replacement would be approximately $900. He said that he heard of this problem every couple weeks and has been surprised by the frequency of the problem with this specific device.
This AQL-P4 is manufactured by Goldline Controls, a subsidiary of Hayward Industries. Due to the vast number of complaints listed on the internet it is likely that the Aqua Logic brand has a flaw in the control board that causes a circuit over load and product failure. A melted solder joint in area K1 of the board routine fails in this product. The product was redesigned during 2007 or 2008. In all likelihood Goldline and Hayward were aware of the circuit defect. As a result I feel that Hayward/Goldline should cover the full cost of the repair or replacement of a known and dangerous electrical flaw.
The purpose of this letter is two fold.
1. To bring to your attention a known product design flaw.
2. To require the manufacturer to acknowledge the product failure and offer complimentary replacement.
An example of this issue can be viewed on www.nocellpower.com.
Discussion of this issue can be found on http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pools/msg021834138300.html and http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=8206 and http://x.havuz.org/viewtopic.php?p=20287
I am happy to provide any additional supporting photos or documentation needed. Thank you for your attention to this matter.
Cc: Presidential Pools
525 E Baseline Rd
Gilbert, AZ 85233
Office of the Attorney General
Consumer Information and Complaints
1275 W. Washington
Phoenix, Arizona 85007-2926
Goldline Controls
61 Whitecap Dr.
North Kingstown, RI 02852
Department of Attorney General
Consumer Protection Unit
150 South Main Street
Providence, RI 02903
Hayward Pool Products
620 Division Street
Elizabeth, NJ 07207
Mike said...
6/23/2009 7:54:00 PM
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I have a PS-8 about 4 years old. Last year I was experiencing an occasional message stating that I had a bad flow switch. I removed and cleaned it. That seemed to solve that problem. Well, this year I started getting the same message. Again, I cleaned it and reinstalled. No more bad flow switch messages to date.
About a week ago I got the dreaded “No Cell Power” message that leads me to read this site. Earlier today I looked at the back of the PCB. To my amazement, there weren’t any burned areas as reported here. Nonetheless, I reheated and soldered the two points behind the K1 relay. Put everything back together and fired it up. The “bad flow switch” message reappeared but went away after the pump ran for about 5 minutes.
The pump has been running about an hour now without any messages. I’ll report back if I experience any further problems. Something is causing the point on the K1 relay to arc and burn. I’m guessing that it is a bad solder joint (too little solder). That’s why I decided to re-soldered it even though I did not observe any burned areas.
Thank you for providing this valuable information. Gold Line Controls needs to step up to the plate, acknowledge this problem, and replace these faulty PCBs.
Anonymous said...
6/23/2009 6:42:00 PM
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System is 3yrs and 3months old. It worked! Thanks. Maybe someone at Hayward should see this.
Anonymous said...
6/22/2009 1:40:00 PM
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I followed all the instructions given and it only worked for 24 hours and now I'm receiving the same no cell power message...did I not use enough solder perhaps?
Hilaldo said...
6/21/2009 2:10:00 PM
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We searched Google for the error message, "no cell power" and up came this site. An amazingly simple fix and has saved many of us LOTS of our hard earned money. Took me and my brother about 20 minutes to resolder the burned area. It was not nearly as messed up as the authors but we did the fix anyway. Thank goodness we tried it anyway because it FIXED the issue and it is now producing salt again. My only suggestion is for you to add a PayPal Donation button so those of us whom you saved hundreds can give you a monetary donation. Thanks again!
Harry said...
6/20/2009 5:02:00 PM
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This was a great help. My AquaLogic control panel looks a little different than the one in your pictures but the PCB looks similar - including the bad connection on K1. Mine was installed with the pool back in November 2003. I've had to replace the cell back in May of 2006 (just inside the warranty). I thought for sure the cell had gone again and ordered one on-line before finding that helpful thread on GardenWeb which lead me here. Since there is a 25% restocking fee if I cancel the order, I'll keep it on a shelf ready for when it will be needed. Even though I spent $500 on a not-yet-needed cell. I'm sure you saved the cost of replacing the PCB because I would have just replaced it not knowing there was a simple fix.
PJ said...
6/20/2009 3:51:00 PM
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Man, am I glad I found this website.
I followed the instructions and presto! No more problem.
Thank you so so much.
Anonymous said...
6/20/2009 3:51:00 PM
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Thank you so much for your pictures and comments. It almost would cost me over $800 to fix the same problem, if I would not read your article and postpone for 3 hours the "professional help." That was close!
I have one comment for others: there are two orange wires connected to the board (on the P4 system I have)and I suggest to mark where they exactly go. I had to make a very educated guess and was lucky. It worked like a charm.Thanks again to you and the navy guy how came with the basic solution first.
Anonymous said...
6/18/2009 8:30:00 PM
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Thank you so much for posting this repair article. I had to call back my pool repair tech to cancel PCB board replacement, I found your article at the last minute and it solved my problem, and saved me $600.00!
Anonymous said...
6/12/2009 3:26:00 PM
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YES WORKED THANK YOU SAVED 227.00
Brent Carlson said...
6/12/2009 1:19:00 AM
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Here's a video of us resoldering the joint. It worked like a charm. Salt and chlorine levels are back up.
If you think you have the same problem, follow the instructions (AND BE CAREFUL - TURN OFF YOUR POWER) and go for it.
Thanks again!
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ffOV3rTyvRhqrryCP4pHmA?authkey=Gv1sRgCI3El6TZqcDtZw&feat=directlink
Anonymous said...
6/11/2009 1:08:00 PM
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My husband went to Radio Shack, bought the soldering iron for under $10, did exactly what was posted here and IT WORKS PERFECTLY!! Thank you so much for posting this, we would have been out $500 otherwise!! Anyone can do this, if your Goldline says "No Cell Power" try this first!!
BC said...
6/10/2009 1:02:00 AM
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What everyone said above and more! THANK YOU! You are my hero. This social Internet thing is pretty cool. ;-)
Like everyone else, I had the "No Cell Power" error on my 3 year *young* system -- just out of full warranty -- and was slammed with the prospect of having to shell out upwards of $500-$800 to get this manufacturer's defect fixed so my pool could be blue via the salt chlorinator again (nasty algae ensued). Well, I added a couple gallons of raw chlorine and that fixed the problem temporarily. I highly recommend doing this if you can't fix this problem quickly. Next step was to do some research on the problem and thanks to Google, the Gardenweb.com string appeared and I read every word intently... and then was stoked to come across this site, nocellpower.com. How cool of you to take the time to document all of this! You are a Godsend.
So, I just finished the repair with my father-in-law (much more of an electrician than me). I followed the simple and easy to understand instructions on the site and it seems to have worked like a charm. My "Check System" light immediately turned off and the "No Cell Power" error message is nowhere to be found. I am going to watch it closely and report back if it did NOT work, so assume no news is good news. I'll also post some photos and videos on the corresponding steps.
Again, to the author of this site, my sincerest of thanks. Have a great summer!
BC
RobnHouston said...
6/7/2009 1:52:00 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to document the steps, Darentx.
I followed the string of information from the Gardenweb to this site.
RobnHouston
Anonymous said...
6/6/2009 4:22:00 PM
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You saved me a ton of money. You and Navyet are the best. I changed the fuses and soldered the K1 joint and now the cell has power and is running normally. Thanks!
craftinvegas said...
6/5/2009 4:48:00 PM
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You are the man, this was brilliant! Used your method, got the cell working, no problem. And I'm terrible at this kind of stuff! Thanks so much, you saved me like $500.
Anonymous said...
6/5/2009 9:51:00 AM
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Thank you for posting this information! Word needs to get out. It has been 3 years with my system and same problem at same joint occured. Unfortunately, I paid a technician $560 bucks to diagnose and fix. He said he sees this frequently. Wish I would have found your site a couple of days earlier! How does one clean the solder joint before resoldering? Thanks, Rick, Orlando, FL
Red said...
6/4/2009 8:24:00 AM
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Thank you. I did all that last night and it works fine now
GoodGuyTX said...
6/1/2009 7:05:00 PM
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Great info! Luckily my system is only 2 years old and still under warranty. I have the same problem, though tried to solder and it didn't seem to fix it though my soldering wasn't the best and the burn out seemed a lot larger than your picture.
Scott - Modesto, CA said...
5/30/2009 1:29:00 PM
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Sooooo freakin stoked to have found this site. Just completed my repair and all appears to be working fine. I had thought there might be some sort of "fuse" issues in the board as I could hear things click on and click right off again when power went to the cell so I was headed to the right area but wouldn't have been sure what to do next without this info. THANKS!!!!!
Anonymous said...
5/25/2009 6:49:00 PM
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Just need to add that the K1 solder joint issue is not only tied to a "cell no power" fault. My diagnostic message began as "low temp" when my water temp was 80F then changed to "Check Salt Level" and my salt was verified at 3200PPM. I decided to check the K1 anyway and discovered I had the issue. A little resoldering and my cell powered right up! So I recommend all faults that do not allow the cell to power up check the K1. Thanks again!
Rob N
Clinton Township, MI
Anonymous said...
5/25/2009 6:36:00 PM
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Wow! Thank you for posting this and for the other guy that discovered this common main board problem. Resoldering the K1 resolved my problem. I need to add to this blog that my diagostics was not "no cell power". My diagnostic message began as "low temp" with my water at 80 degrees F, then after resetting many times by cycling the power my diagnostics said "Check Salt Level" and my true salt level was 3200PPM. So I suggest anyone whos cell will not click on check the K1 joint. Easy fix.
htrain said...
5/24/2009 1:21:00 PM
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Thank you very much, just did this with my brothers help(he is more handy than me and has soldering experience). Took about 30 minutes start to finish, that was with reading the instructions and watching the soldering video. Saved me $850 from what the pool company was going to charge me. I was one month over warranty and they wouldn't cover any of it for me.
Chris H.
Gareth R said...
5/23/2009 11:27:00 AM
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Thanks so much, Hayward gave me the usual call a tech 40% pro rata 3yrs 6m old, just had to buy a new cell as that gave up last month. It took me 20 mins start to finish. I also did not remove the board fully. My soldering is not a work of art but hey it works and is not visable anyway. I also believe Hayward should recall the boards.
Laura W said...
5/22/2009 3:04:00 PM
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I commented at the beginning of this post, but I have to say again...THANK YOU!! Same errors and issues as above, and your posting was such a blessing! Happy Summer!
Laura W said...
5/22/2009 2:58:00 PM
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Bless you! Bless you! Bless you! As a single mom of two kids...the $800 it was going to cost to "fix and replace" this issue had been causing me stress since my "no cell power" error showed up back in Sept '08. Out of the blue yesterday I decided to do some further research online and found this "fix". So...I figured, "why not?"! I followed the directions to a "T" and was overwhelmed with relief when it worked! EXACT SAME problem...and what a shame Aqualogic isn't recalling this panel to take better care of their customers. Tsk tsk.
Happy Summer!!!
Laura
Cedar Park, TX
Anonymous said...
5/22/2009 12:04:00 PM
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I have same problem with "No Cell Powere" this morning. Thank-you so much for this informantion. Please this site posted all time. Hayward are one of the greedy corporations that do not care about there client.
Anonymous said...
5/14/2009 9:45:00 PM
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Thank you so much for this information. I came home from work yesterday and had the "No Cell Power" error message. Today I fixed my system following your instructions. I really have to wonder why Hayward doesn't fix this problem....except it generates cash for them.
ads said...
5/14/2009 6:12:00 PM
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Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! Same exact problem. Called Aqualogic, they told me to check the 20A fuse. When I confirmed the fuse wasn't blown they told me to contact my pool company since they were an approved warranty provider for Aqualogic. Decided to Google this first and found this link. Took the board off, and found the same burned out connection under the relay. Soldered it back and Presto, works like new!
Thanks,
Michael
Anonymous said...
5/13/2009 2:36:00 PM
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I have been fighting a no cell power issue on my Aqua Logic system for about two weeks. After trying numerous suggestions from the local pool supply store, the manufacture and various tips found on the internet I stumbled upon this. I followed these directions and sure enough I had a bad solder joint which I cleaned and soldered and my problem was solved.
I cannot thank you enough for posting these instructions, it literally saved my hundreds of dollars!!! Steve C.
Anonymous said...
5/10/2009 4:53:00 PM
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I did this yesterday and it worked totally perfect. I agree that it is not necessary to remove the circuit board from the box. Just loosen it, as described, and just tilt it forward, with all the wires still attached (except for the display). I then had to add solder and the I used a solder sucker (Radio Shack, $10) to remove the solder to clean the burned hole. I did that several times until the hole was very clean. Then I added a lot of solder and filled the hole. If I had a little heat sink, I would have soldered it on top, but I did not have one. It works perfect. Thanks for a savings that is sure to save me hundreds every few years. And saved me from lots of time, trouble and frustration. thanks for posting the photos on this web site. I could not have done it without your photos.
